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All photos © Leif Gabrielsen 2003

 
   

 

 

Tilbake til norsk rapport

 


This is the original trip-report written by our tour-leader Risto Skjelnes. (LG)

Intro:

On 15th of November a group of Norwegian and Dutch birders set off to Kenya for a two- and three-weeks birdwatching trip. The main focus of the trip was thus on birds, but we would also be pleased by any mammal or reptile that would cross our path.

The participants on this birdwatching trip to Kenya were Karl Frafjord (Tromsø, Norway), Leif Gabrielsen (Bryne, Norway), Terje Skryten (Hønefoss, Norway), Torill Aaserud Skryten (Hønefoss, Norway), Morten Nilsen (Moss, Norway), Trond Erik Pedersen (Skjetten, Norway), Koert Mulder (Haarlem, The Netherlands), Reinier Mulder (Haarlem, The Netherlands) and Kjetil Gudmestad (Kleppe, Norway). Members of the group that left after 2 weeks were Paul Gordon (Oslo, Norway), Karl Petter Gade (Sandefjord, Norway), Jan Jacobsen (Blystad, Norway) and Audun Brekke (Oslo, Norway). Randi Anette Skryten (Hønefoss, Norway) joined our group for the third week.

Tour-leader was Risto Skjelnes (Leeuwarden, The Netherlands).


Itinerary:

Sunday 16th November
After arrival in Nairobi the previous evening we started the morning with some birdwatching in the hotel gardens before breakfast, thus providing a soft landing for Kenya. Our best birds were African Harrier Hawk, African Goshawk, Cape Robin-chat, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Black-backed Puffback and African Citril. After breakfast we headed towards Naro Moru at the foot of Mt. Kenya, but we stopped briefly at the Blue Posts Hotel, Thika, hoping to see the Grey-olive Greenbul. Beeing here too late in the morning we failed to see this rare bird, but some interesting birds turned up: Mottled Swift, Spot-flanked Barbet, White-browed Robin-chat, Red-billed Firefinch and Black-and-white Mannikin. A later stop at a small pond closer to Mt. Kenya produced our first waterfowl, including White-backed Duck and Southern Pochard and other birds seen on the trip to Naro Moru included Black and Woolly-necked Storks, Wahlberg`s Eagle, White-rumped Swift, White-necked Raven, Holub`s Golden Weaver and the only Brimstone Canary seen on the whole trip. At the Naro Moru River Lodge, where we were staying, we had some very fine birdwatching the last hour before it got dark, Eleonora`s Falcon, Hartlaub`s Turaco, Montane Nightjar, Crowned Hornbill, Red-faced Crombec, Tacazze and Northern Double-collared Sunbirds and Spectacled and African Golden Weavers being some highlights.

Monday 17th November
Our plan was to drive as high up Mt. Kenya as possible with jeeps hired for this purpose. This failed, however, as only one jeep turned up in the morning and we soon found out that it was impossible to drive all the way up with one jeep and one minibus. Consequently we had to bird the lower parts of the mountain, i.e. the first few kilometers after the national park gate. This was not bad at all actually, and we saw some very good birds here: Mountain Buzzard, African Hawk Eagle, African Crowned Eagle, Jackson`s Francolin, Red-fronted Parrot, Olive Pigeon, Scarce Swift, Narina Trogon, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, White-starred Robin, Cinnamon-bracken Warbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Hunter`s Cisticola, Chestnut-throated Apalis, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, Grey Cuckoo-shrike, Montane Oriole, Abbott`s Starling, Golden-winged Sunbird, Black-headed Waxbill and Yellow-crowned Canary. The most sought-after of these is probably the Abbott`s Starling, a rare East African endemic. In the afternoon we again did some relaxed birding in the gardens around our lodge and in the grasslands surrounding it and we “bagged” Shelley`s Francolin, Fawn-coloured Lark, Pectoral-patch Cisticola, Amethyst Sunbird, Northern Double-collared Sunbird and Northern Grosbeak-canary.

Tuesday 18th November
We started the day checking out the Naro Moru River area around the Youth Hostel, and birds seen here, and at our lodge, included Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, African Green Pigeon, Lesser Honeyguide, Mosque Swallow, Slender-billed Greenbul, Rüppell`s Robin-chat, Little Rock Thrush, Brown Woodland Warbler, Grey-capped Warbler, Golden-winged Sunbird and Red-headed Weaver. The highlight was probably a Red-throated Wryneck, but this bird was unfortunately only seen by one observer.
The rest of the day we basically spend driving to Lake Naivasha, via Nairobi, but we did have a few productive stops. Just north of Thika we pulled off the road at a suitable place to have lunch, and while enjoying this we were surprised by a group of Northern Pied Babblers. Later we stopped at Limuru Pond, which was full of birds. Our targets were the Maccoa Duck and the Hottentott Teal, which we soon picked out, alongside more common waterbirds as Red-billed Duck, Yellow-billed Teal, Southern Pochard and Red-knobbed Coot. A White Wagtail was a minor surprise. Our last stop before Naivasha was at the Kinangop Plateau where we saw our target bird, the Sharpe`s Longclaw, without much difficulty. Other birds here were Red-capped Lark and Capped Wheatear.

Wednesday 19th November
We checked out the shore of Lake Naivasha at the Fisherman`s Camp before breakfast and bagged birds as Little Bittern, Spur-winged Goose, Black Crake, Giant Kingfisher and Lesser Swamp Warbler. After breakfast we went into Hell`s Gate NP and had some really good birding until about 3 p.m. Birds we saw included Rüppell`s Griffon Vulture, Verreaux`s Eagle, Kori Bustard, Nyanza Swift, Mottled Swift, White-fronted Bee-eater, Common Scimitarbill, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Greater Honeyguide, Mountain Wagtail, Abyssinian Black Wheatear, Pectoral-patch Cisticola, Red-throated Tit, Red-tailed Shrike, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Crimson-rumped Waxbill and Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting. Of mammals 3 Klipspringers and 3 Oribi were most noteworthy.
After we bought some foodstuff at a local market we headed up to the Crater Lake and spend the rest of the day here. The most important bird here is the Grey-crested Helmet-shrike, which we found with almost ridiculous ease; a flock at the parking lot just after we arrived stayed for a few minutes. Other birds in this area were Dusky Turtle Dove, White-headed Barbet, Bearded Woodpecker and Brown-crowned Tchagra. After it got dark we went on a night gamedrive, which was only a partial success, as we were given only one spotlight, meaning that the people in one bus saw some interesting animals, the folks in the other bus saw virtually nothing. Animals seen included lots of Cape Hares, 3 Bat-eared Foxes, 1 Hippopotamus, 2 Defassa Waterbuck, Kirk`s Long-snouted Dik-dik (very common) and Lesser Galago (1 seen well).

Thursday 20th November
Ofter some easy birdwatching around our campsite before breakfast we headed for Lake Nakuru. Here we had some good birding around some of the lodges, i.e. Lion Hill Lodge and Lake Nakuru Lodge: Ostrich, Scaly Francolin, Greater Honeyguide, Arrow-marked Babbler, Little Rock Thrush, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike and Northern Puffback, to mention a few. When we got down to the lakeshore a heavy rain started to pour down, and this essentially ruined our birding here. Of birds we did see, Grey-headed Gull was the most notable (only sighting on the trip).
After lunch in Nakuru town we headed north to Lake Baringo where we checked in at Robert`s Camp.

Friday 21st November
We started the day at the Lake Baringo cliffs and the dry and scrubby surroundings of the cliffs and we were accompanied by a local guide, Douglas. During the morning hours we experienced some really superb birding and some of the good findings here were Ayres`s Hawk-eagle, Pygmy Falcon, Lanner Falcon, Spotted Thick-knee, Heuglin`s Courser, Spotted Eagle-owl, White-faced Scops Owl, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Buff-bellied Warbler, Fan-tailed Raven, Bristle-crowned Starling, Grey-headed Silverbill and White-bellied Canary. The real highlight here though were the good numbers of Nightjars we found. In an area of less than a hectare we foung a total of 15 Slender-tailed Nightjars, 2 Plain Nightjars and 1 female Long-tailed Nightjar (outside this area we saw none!). The last-mentioned species is probably rare so far south in Kenya.
Other good birds seen this day were Yellow-billed Egret, Black-headed Plover, Verreaux`s Eagle Owl and Northern Brownbul. The Eagle Owls were breeding inside the camping ground.

Saturday 22nd November
Another productive day at Lake Baringo and some of the birds we saw were Green-backed Heron, Goliath Heron, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Crested Francolin, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, Brown-tailed Rock Chat, White-shouldered Cliff Chat, Northern Crombec, Pygmy Batis, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Hunter`s Sunbird and Northern and Lesser Masked Weavers.A search for Lichtenstein`s Sandgrouse in the evening was unsuccesful.

Sunday 23rd November
Early in the morning we left for Lake Bogoria and we drove straight to the hot springs at the lakeshore. Good birds here included Cape Teal, Three-banded Plover, Brown Parrot, Rufous-crowned Roller, Rufous Bush Chat, Silverbird, Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit, Black-cheeked Waxbill and a Green-winged Pytilia. A real surprise was a fly-by Pacific Golden Plover. The beautiful scenery with the steaming springs and thousands of flamingos made the day even more enjoyable. At noon we drove towards Kitale, but we had a few short stops at the Elgeyo escarpment. These stops were not very productive but we did record Shikra, White-crested Helmet-shrike, Northern Puffback and Red-headed Weaver.

Monday 24th November
We spend the entire day at Saiwa Swamp NP, a small but truly enjoyable forested national park. Many of the birds seen here we later saw at Kakamega Forest as well, but the most noteworthy sightings in Saiwa Swamp were Tambourine Dove, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Asian Lesser Cuckoo, Blue-headed Coucal, Double-toothed Barbet, Yellow-throated Leaf-love, Pale-breasted Illadopsis, Grey-winged Robin, Snowy-headed Robin-chat, Little Rush Warbler, Chubb`s Cisticola, Black-throated Apalis, Black-collared Apalis, Black-throated Wattle-eye, Lühder`s Bush-shrike, Amethyst Sunbird, Black-billed Weaver, Yellow Bishop and Black-crowned Waxbill. Late afternoon we drove back to our hotel in Kitale.

Tuesday 25th November
Early morning departure for the Kongelai escarpment north of Kitale. Our main target here was the White-crested Turaco, which we indeed found without any problems. Other birds here were Grey Kestrel, Ross`s Turaco, White-headed Barbet, Double-toothed Barbet, White-shouldered Cliff Chat, Lesser Blue-eared Starling, Violet-backed Starling, Marico Sunbird and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.
Eventually we drove back to Kitale for lunch and to Kakamega Forest where we checked in at the Rondo Retreat Centre. Nice with some luxury after two nights in a basic hotel in Kitale. In the afternoon we had time to tick off some of the specialities of the forest, that is White-spotted Flufftail, Great Blue Turaco and Blue-headed Bee-eater, as well as some of the commoner forest species here as Gabar Goshawk, Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill, Grey-throated Barbet, Ansorge`s Greenbul, Red-tailed Bristlebill and Grey-headed Negrofinch.

Wednesday 26th November
The morning hours were spend in forested area just north of the Ikuywa bridge. The birding was outstanding and we saw a good deal of the Kakamega specialities: Great Blue Turaco (magnificent views) and Ross`s Turaco, Yellow-billed Barbet, Shelley`s Greenbul, Joyful Greenbul, Blue-shouldered Robin-chat, Uganda Woodland Warbler, Buff-throated Apalis, White-browed Crombec, Turner`s Eremomela, Southern Hyliota, Dusky Tit, Common Wattle-eye, African Shrike-flycatcher, Mackinnon`s Fiscal, Bocage`s Bush-shrike, Pink-footed Puffback, Western Black-headed Oriole, Stuhlmann`s Starling, Green-throated Sunbird, Grosbeak Weaver, Black-necked Weaver, Vieillot`s Black Weaver, Dark-backed Weaver, Red-headed Malimbe, White-breasted Negrofinch and Red-headed Bluebill. A junglewalk in the afternoon was much more quiet, but did produce African Emerald Cuckoo (seen), Yellowbill, Petit`s Cuckoo-shrike and Equatorial Akalat.

Thursday 27th November
Good birding in the jungle near the lodge and the forest station produced Great Sparrowhawk, Yellowbill, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Brown-eared Woodpecker, Buff-spotted Woodpecker, African Broadbill, Cabanis`s Greenbul, Brown-chested Alethe, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Dusky Crested Flycatcher, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Jameson`s Wattle-eye, Square-tailed Drongo and White-breasted Negrofinch, as well as many of the species seen the previous days.
Another area to the east of the lodge produced Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher and an African Wood Owl at the lodge in the morning should also be mentioned. Eventually we headed towards Kisumu at the shore of Lake Victoria and we checked in at Sunset hotel. We still had a few hours of daylight so we headed out to Hippo Point and Dunga Point (near our hotel) and found several of the local specialities before it got dark: Water Thick-knee, Black-billed Barbet, Swamp Flycatcher, African Reed Warbler, Red-chested Sunbird, Slender-billed Weaver, Yellow-backed Weaver and Fan-tailed Widowbird.

Friday 28th November
Early morning saw us at Dunga Point where we hired two boats to check the papyrus reeds for the Papyrus Gonolek. Highlights of this boattrip were 4 Papyrus Gonoleks and 10 African Skimmers, and other birds here and at Hippo Point later in the morning were Fulvous Whistling Duck, Blue-headed Coucal, African Palm Swift, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Banded Martin, Greater Swamp Warbler, Winding Cisticola, Marsh Tchagra, Black-headed Gonolek, Northern Brown-throated Weaver and Papyrus Canary. We thus had a splendid morning here and the only speciality we dipped out on was the Carruther`s Cisticola.
After lunch we set out on the long bustrip to Masai Mara (which turned out to be several hours longer than expected as the driver didn`t know the way) and in the Game Reserve we checked in at our campsite; by far the most basic accommodation on this trip. Birds seen en route to Masai Mara were Bateleur, Tawny Eagle, Kori Bustard, Black-bellied Bustard, White-bellied Bustard, Yellow-billed Oxpecker and Taita Fiscal.
At the campsite we heard a calling African Scops Owl.

Saturday 29th November
Finally the day dawned that many had been waiting for; a full day safari in Masai Mara. The turnout was also very good, both bird as mammal-wise. Of the birds we noted species as Secretary Bird, African White-backed Vulture, Rüppell`s Griffon Vulture, Lappet-faced Vulture, White-headed Vulture, Coqui Francolin, Black-bellied Bustard, White-bellied Bustard, Temminck`s Courser, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Rufous-naped Lark, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Rosy-breasted Longclaw, Rufous-chested Swallow, Sooty Chat, Stout Cisticola, Ashy Cisticola, Desert Cisticola, Magpie Shrike, White-necked Raven, Vitelline Masked Weaver and Yellow-fronted Canary.
Of mammals we saw, among more ordinary species, Black-backed Jackal, Oribi, Banded Mongoose, Spotted Hyena, Lion, Cheetah and African Elephant.

Sunday 30th November
The morning hours were spend on another safari, although a short one. Many of the same birds and mammals were seen as the previous day, but also Hooded Vulture, Dark-chanting Goshawk, Martial Eagle, Red-necked Spurfowl, Brown Parrot, Striped Kingfisher and Silverbird. After a late breakfast we headed towards Nairobi, but naturally with a few stops at promising-looking places. These stops produced Lesser Spotted Eagle, Two-banded Courser, Fawn-coloured Lark, Red-capped Lark, Fischer`s Sparrow-lark, Long-billed Pipit, Capped Wheatear and Desert Cisticola. In Nairobi we checked in at the same hotel as two weeks earlier and later four members of the group were taken to the airport for their flight home while one person was picked up at the airport.

Extension Week

Monday 1st December
Our first site of the day was the Athi Plains, some 30 kms south of Nairobi, where we arrived somewhat delayed. Although not very good with birds we saw our target species here, the ssp. athensis of the Somali Short-toed Lark (Athi Short-toed Lark) as well as Short-tailed Lark, Fischer`s Sparrow-lark and Pectoral-patch Cisticola. Then we drove towards the Tsavo West NP, but with a productive stop at the Mtito Andei Gate. Birds seen at the gate and the drive to our lodge at dusk included Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Black-and-white Cuckoo, Black Cuckoo, Eurasian Roller, Horus Swift, Upcher`s Warbler, Grey Wren Warbler and Green-winged Pytilia. After checking in at the Kilaguni Lodge and enjoying an excellent dinner here, we watched the wildlife at the floodlit waterhole. This was truly excellent; although we could see a Verreaux`s Eagle Owl a few meters from the lodge and Slender-tailed Nightjars hunting over the waterhole, the mammals stole the show this evening. Small, nocturnal and normally shy mammals seen at very close range here were Common Genet, White-tailed Mongoose, Egyptian Mongoose and African Civet; all of these apparently used to the presence of man.

Tuesday 2nd December
Rather disappointingly we found that it was raining at dawn, but this actually turned out to be an advantage as it apparently forced a flock of migrating Amur Falcons down. From our hotelrooms we counted, within a few minutes, 280+ migrating low past our lodge. Other birds seen before or during breakfast were Greater Painted Snipe, Southern Ground Hornbill and Red-billed Buffalo-weaver.
After breakfast we drove to the Mzima Springs and this trip was one of those wonderful occasions where you have to stop every second minute, to check out some entirely new birds. Birds seen en route to, or at the Mzima Springs were Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Martial Eagle, Pygmy Falcon, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Giant Kingfisher, Red-winged Lark, Pink-breasted Lark, Pangani Longclaw, Rufous Bush Chat, Tiny Cisticola, Rosy-patched Bush-shrike, Golden-breasted Starling, Black-bellied Sunbird, Black-capped Social Weaver and African Golden Weaver. The Black-bellied Sunbird was our target species at the springs, but eventually the Golden-breasted Starlings turned out to be everyone`s favourite; what magnificent birds!
Early afternoon we drove to Watamu at the coast and the only noteworthy thing that happened was the sighting of a Vulturine Guineafowl from the bus.

Wednesday 3rd December
This morning we planned to be at the Sabaki River, but it was already 9 a.m. before we started on the 3 km walk down to the river-mouth. Already at this time it was very hot, and when we got back to our busses three hours later it was nearly 40° C; all of us were nacked and this was definitely the hardest birding on the trip. We did see some good birds though: Dimorphic Egret, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Water Thick-knee, White-fronted Plover, Lesser Sand Plover, Greater Sand Plover, Terek Sandpiper, Lesser Crested Tern, Saunder`s Tern, Yellowbill, Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul, Grosbeak Weaver and Zanzibar Red Bishop.
After a few hours rest in Malindi we made a short stop at the beach and at the Vasco de Gama Point and recorded Sooty Gull, Heuglin`s Gull, Mottled Spinetail and Ethiopian Swallow.
Our last stop of the day was the Mida Creek near Watamu, where we managed to see our target bird, the Crab Plover, as well as Carmine Bee-eater and Black-bellied Starling. Very few waders where identified as the tide was low and the birds very far away.

Thursday 4th December
In the morning we met up with Albert, our local guide, and finally we could bird the famous Sokoke Forest. And excellent it was, within a few hours we had seen many of the specialities: Lizard Buzzard, Narina Trogon, Trumpeter Hornbill, Green Barbet, Mombasa Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Red-tailed Ant Thrush, Eastern Bearded Scrub Robin, Forest Batis, Retz`s Helmet-shrike, Chestnut-fronted Helmet-shrike, Eastern Nicator, Black-bellied Starling, Amani Sunbird and Peter`s Twinspot.
The afternoon we spend at the Gedi Ruins which is an impressive cultural sight, but was quiet with birds. We did find some goodies, though: breeding Palm-nut Vulture, breeding Barn Owl and Silvery-cheeked Hornbill.
As we failed to find the Sokoke Scops Owl in the morning we went back to the forest with Albert at dusk. Now the owls responded quikly when we played its call, and after a few minutes search in the bush we found 2 adults and 2 juv. and could study them well with the help of flashlights. Fiery-necked Nightjars seen on the road and Four-toed Elephant-shrews running over it were added bonuses this night.

Friday 5th December
At dawn we ventured back into the forest and we spend the whole morning here, trying to find the birds we dipped out on the previous day. We were quite succesful as we recorded Crested Guinafowl, Fischer`s Turaco, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Sokoke Pipit, Tiny Greenbul, Black-headed Apalis, Little Yellow Flycatcher, African Golden Oriole, Plain-backed Sunbird and Clarke`s Weaver. Pretty good although we only had very poor views of the two most important birds; the Pipit and the Weaver. A short stop at Mida Creek after we had packed our things and checked out of our guesthouse in Watamu didn`t produce much more than Purple-banded Sunbird. Then we drove all the way to Voi, where we stayed overnight.

Saturday 6th December
This morning the group split in two: one small group drove up to the Taita Hills to try to find the three endemic forms that occur here. After parking near Wundanyi they checked a forested hill, and eventually found all three species: Montane White-eye (Taita White-eye), Taita Thrush and Bar-throated Apalis (Taita Apalis), although the thrush was seen by only one. Other good birds here were Hartlaub`s Turaco, Stripe-cheeked Greenbul, White-starred Robin and Evergreen Forest Warbler.
How succesful this was, it hardly impressed the other group that spend the morning at Ndala Ranch, near Voi. They experienced some outstanding birding here and among other birds they saw were Ayres`s Hawk-eagle, Orange-bellied Parrot, Spotted Eagle Owl, Bare-eyed Thrush, Scaly Chatterer, Three-streaked Tchagra, Pin-tailed Whydah, Paradise Whydah, Steel-blue Whydah, Straw-tailed Whydah and Common Indigobird. Most of the Whydahs were actually sitting in one bush!
After lunch we then set course to Nairobi and we noted White-bellied Bustard, Rufous-crowned Roller and Broad-billed Roller from the bus. After a shower and dinner at a hotel in Nairobi we were taken to the airport for our flight home.

Summary 

As a very brief concluding remark we note that during the two first weeks of the trip we recorded a total of 506 species of bird. On the extention week we noted a further 99 species so the total for this trip ended on 605 species. It should also be noted that we saw 49 mammalian species (that were specifically identified) during these three weeks, several of which are rather shy and hard-to-see animals. This must be considered a very good result for a birdwatching trip like this one, even if we did encounter occasional problems (like the jeeps at Mt. Kenya). What the highlights of these birds were I leave up to everyone to decide for themselves, but strong candidates might be Martial Eagle, African Skimmer, any of the Turacos, Blue-headed or Carmine Bee-eater, Double-toothed Barbet, African Broadbill, Papyrus Gonolek, Abbott`s Starling or Golden-breasted Starling (just to make it a short list).

On a trip like this it is unavoidable, however, that we miss out on some birds. Of the common Kenyan species our most obvious omission was maybe Kittlitz`s Plover, but some other birds that eluded us were Hemprich`s Hornbill, Black-winged Plover, Greater Crested Tern, Grey-rumped Swallow, African Hill Babbler, Carruther`s Cisticola, Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye, Black-crowned Tchagra, Chestnut Sparrow, Jackson`s Golden-backed Weaver and most of the Widowbirds. For surely we will see these on a later occasion!?

On a final note I would like to thank all of the participants for making this a truly memorable trip. Thank you!Risto

Risto Skjelnes
http://home.tiscali.no/fugletur/
 

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